Thursday, August 16, 2007

TOP CHEF – Restaurant Wars

TELEVISION If you’re going to have a competition to create a gourmet burger, it’s most appropriate to have renowned chef Daniel Boulud, who offers $32 burgers at his DB Bistro Moderne in New York City, as the evening’s guest judge. The Quickfire Challenge had the majority of the chefs creating assorted seafood burgers but, playing to Boulud’s strong suit, only the sweaty Howie used truffles with his burger and was one of the favorites. Sara made a crab burger with a citrus remoulade that looked delicious but while trying to keep it light in carbs, she was criticized for serving it on lettuce instead of a bun. The big winner was CJ serving a Scallop Mousse and Shrimp Burger with Tangerine. Speedy Padma was prompt in telling him that from this point on the QF winner will no longer have immunity in the Elimination Challenge.
Having worked in many restaurants, the EC in this episode was one of my favorites. The chef-testants were to divide into two groups and open a restaurant from scratch. CJ was given an advantage for winning the QFC and was allowed to choose his own team. Though he picked what I thought would be a strong team, Brian, Casey and Tre, what he didn’t consider was the lack of restaurant experience three of the four had.
Beyond creating a menu, starting up a restaurant has many variables that need to come together, like a concept, décor, service and a catchy name that could come from anything. CJ’s sister is named April, so his team went with that. Inspired by the blank slate of a room, the other team named their bistro The Garage, which might be nice for a supply store but maybe not so great for a dining experience.
While shopping for the front of the house, Casey mentioned to Brian about getting something that smelled for the table but Brian knew better and went with a décor that was soft and light. Unfortunately, Dale and Hung went with an industrial look of black table cloths with strong vanilla-scented candles that everyone found offensive. Does Dale really have a weak sense of smell? And it was funny to hear Dale say that Queer Eye has nothing on his decorating sense. You can check out Ted Allen’s response at his blog.

Restaurant April: Tre was executive chef and CJ was sous chef. The first thing Padma mentions after being seated is the dust on the plates. Yuck! Brian took care of service and was told he was sweating a lot. (Did no one ever see Howie in the kitchen?)
Menu
1. Seared Sea Scallop on Corn and Truffle Custard (I assume this was Casey’s dish)
2. Grouper with Shellfish and Artichoke Hearts was CJ’s and the fish looked great.
3. Wild Mushroom and Gorgonzola Crusted Beef Tenderloin with Smoked Potatoes. Tre created this dish but the smoked potatoes overpowered it all.
4. Apple Tart Tatin

The Garage: Sara was head chef, Howie sous chef, Dale did no cooking. This menu was considered too rich for a warm summer night.
Menu
1. Tuna Tartare with Nicoise Olive Puree was Hung’s and was told it was delicate and successful, though with too much white asparagus
2. Mushroom Risotto with Foie Gras and Truffles was thick and “gluey.” Howie nonetheless liked the way he made it with heavy cream and parmesan cheese.
3. Braised Lamb Shanks by Sara only added to the overall heaviness of the menu.
4. Crepes with Dark Chocolate Again, something lighter was needed

Brian and Dale, the two in front of the house, were called to face the judges, who made a good decision. They were told that no one was going home. They all have another chance to make changes and reopen their restaurants next week. Tom said to consider it a soft opening.
Taking notes throughout dinner was Andrea Strong, a writer of a weekly blog pertaining to dining out in NYC. Check Gail Simmon’s blog for her experience with Chef Daniel Boulud, who thoughtfully handed out copies of his book of essays, Letters to a Young Chef, to the contenders.

I tend to agree with the Text Poll: At which restaurant would you make reservations? April 75%, The Garage 15%